Kato Restaurant Los Angeles — The Most Exciting Meal I’ve Had This Year

There are restaurants you go to because they’re trendy, and then there are restaurants you’ve quietly kept on your list for years because something about them keeps pulling you back.

For me, that was Kato.

I’ve been following Chef Jon Yao and Kato online for quite some time now, but somehow never made it in. I tend to gravitate toward restaurants with a story, restaurants where you can feel the intention behind every dish. Recently, I found myself down another YouTube rabbit hole watching interviews and videos about Jon again, and it reminded me just how long Kato had been sitting on my list.

The timing ended up being perfect.

I had just come back from China, where I finally got to try one of my all-time favorite dishes: suan cai yu, a sour vegetable fish soup that completely took over my brain the entire trip. So when I saw that Jon had his own version of suan cai yu on the tasting menu, I immediately canceled my existing dinner reservation elsewhere and somehow managed to grab the last two 5 PM seats for the night.

And honestly? Kato exceeded every expectation I had.

This is Taiwanese food reimagined. Elevated. Fun. Creative. But still deeply nostalgic.

That’s what made this meal so special to me.

Every dish felt familiar in some way, whether it reminded me of something I grew up eating, dishes I had during my travels in Asia, or flavors tied to childhood memories. But instead of simply recreating traditional dishes, Chef Jon Yao transforms them into something playful and refined while still keeping the soul of the original flavors intact.

Nothing felt forced or overdone. The flavors still felt comforting and recognizable.

Kato has held one Michelin star the past few years, and after finally experiencing it myself… it is very well deserved.

The Experience

The night started with a tableside old fashioned made with Kavalan, a Taiwanese whiskey that Kato collaborated on and can only be found there. Naturally… I had to order it. Smooth, slightly sweet, and honestly the perfect way to start the evening.

From the very first course, I already knew dinner was going to be special.

Liang Mian

Chef Jon’s play on cold noodles, except served with crudo.

The second I took a bite, I had one of those immediate “WAIT… I know this flavor” moments. Familiar, nostalgic, but completely reimagined. That ended up being the theme of the entire night.

A Ratatouille moment immediately.

Youtiao

This was an add-on from the tasting menu and absolutely worth it.

Jon’s version of a Chinese donut came filled with uni and topped with ham and caviar. Crispy, buttery, salty, rich… just excessive in the best possible way.

Suan Cai Yu

The dish that made me book Kato in the first place.

And wow… this completely lived up to the hype in my head.

Bright, sour, comforting, layered, warming, nostalgic. Somehow delicate while still carrying all the bold flavors that make suan cai yu so addictive. Easily my favorite dish of the night and the one I cannot stop thinking about.

Jiucenta Chao Geli

The second this dish hit the table, I smelled basil and instantly thought of basil clams.

That’s what made this dinner so fun for me. Every course kept unlocking memories. You recognize the inspiration immediately, but the execution feels entirely new at the same time.

Jin Sha

Salted egg lobster. Need I say more?

Mayou Ji

Chicken soup with quail. This quail was INSANE. Genuinely the best quail I’ve ever had. Perfectly cooked, flavorful, tender, crispy in all the right places.

Shao Wei

Dry-aged Peking duck. Smoky, rich, crispy skin, beautifully executed.

Dessert

Even dessert somehow managed to tap into childhood memories for me.

The Suannai yogurt immediately reminded me of the Vietnamese yogurts I grew up eating. Qing Cao Mei, the green strawberry dessert, instantly reminded me of haw flakes. Then came boba and finally Tiandian, an assortment of sweets that felt like the little desserts and treats served alongside tea at the end of family meals.

The entire dinner felt thoughtful from beginning to end.

Final Thoughts

Kato was one of those rare meals where every single course felt intentional.

Not flashy just to be flashy. Not “elevated” in a way that loses the soul of the original dish. Instead, Chef Jon Yao created a tasting menu that felt deeply personal, nostalgic, playful, and technically incredible all at once.

The entire night was Ratatouille moments left and right.

Every dish unlocked a memory while still surprising me.

Without a doubt, one of the most memorable meals I’ve had this year.